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2nd VelociRapter Drive


Toppack

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I have gone back through the thread and there is no image which shows me the present setup.

If you have the flow indicator between lets say the outlet of the small pump and the inlet of the big pump, then you will create a demand (suction) at the outlet of the flowmeter. This will cause an increase in velocity but with a corresponding drop in pressure. The flowmeter can spin faster with no overall increase in volume transfer through the system.

When you say the flow indicator gives a flowrate and pressure, can you give me the units or is the flowrate simply by observing the speed with no actual units displayed.

The flowrate can be calculated from the pressure at the return from the final heat sink in the loop and the internal diameter of the tubing at that point.

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I have gone back through the thread and there is no image which shows me the present setup.

 

??? It's All There in the attached pictures :!:

This is Not some City water-works Project! :lol:

 

If you have the flow indicator between lets say the outlet of the small pump and the inlet of the big pump, then you will create a demand (suction) at the outlet of the flowmeter. This will cause an increase in velocity but with a corresponding drop in pressure. The flowmeter can spin faster with no overall increase in volume transfer through the system.

 

Okay, It's Only total flow-rate that I'm trying to determine.

 

When you say the flow indicator gives a flowrate and pressure, can you give me the units or is the flowrate simply by observing the speed with no actual units displayed.

The flowrate can be calculated from the pressure at the return from the final heat sink in the loop and the internal diameter of the tubing at that point.

 

As the pictures show, it is a spinner type flow-meter,

and there is no easy way to measure anything else.

The Radiator is the most restrictive part of the loop and I'm sure it reduces flow-rate some.

 

I realize we can not get a Very accurate rate without knowing the restrictive resistance (pressure difference) in the loop.

I only want a generalized total of flow-rate with two pumps.

(when adding the rates of both pumps)

 

Note - I do have a Strobe-light that measures RPM of moving objects, that I may try, to determine how much faster it spins with two pumps :idea:

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Without the pressure readings, and with so many elements in the loop, the only way to really do it is to do a volumetric check, which will give you a reasonable idea of the total flowrate.

 

You need a large container full of water. Place the pumps (or system) so that the pumps are at a level which is iline with the centre of the container. Place the tube from the inlet of the pump(s) into the container. Place the final return tube from the system (after the heat sinks) into a lagrge graduated container and start the system. Use a stopwatch to measure how long it takes to cycle a few litres. Then you can calculate the flowrate.

You can do this with one pump, then the other pump and finaly with both pumps and you will have the various flowrates for the three conditions.

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Well, with both pumps activated it appears that the flow-meter speed is around 940.rpm average,

but with only one pump it was Less than half that, at around 380.rpm.

Very Surprising difference. :shock:

 

(my strobe-light does not measure less than 500.rpm accurately,

but I know it was less than 400.rpm with one pump) :roll:

 

The temp at CPU was about 4.deg F higher, on one pump, at Idle.

 

Note - (that was the higher rated pump I disconnected, the other pump is too difficult to disconnect, to try it alone)

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Unfortunately, that will not help you regarding establishing the flow rate. As I said the pressure is the important component. The velocity can be higher due to the pushme pullyou effect of the two pumps in series, but the volumetric transfer rate may not be greatly affected.

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Unfortunately, that will not help you regarding establishing the flow rate.

 

Yes, I realize that, I just wanted to get a relative speed difference, of the flow-indicator, with one and two pumps.

Since that is the only Easy measurement I can do.

That will also give a visual reference and temp difference, so I will know what it looks like if that pump fails.

(These small pumps are So quiet, it's difficult to tell if they are working or not, other than looking at flow-meter)

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I got the CPU Water-cooler installed in my gaming-system. :grin:

The 120x360 radiator fit very well in that case.

The illuminated flow-meter is visible through side-window of case.

I used the same pumps and flow-meter as in the other computer.

 

First pic shows all W-C components inside case.

(notice the two 200.mm fans above radiator and three 120.mm fans below it)

(The two 200.mm fans were already in the case so did need to install those)

(illuminated flow-meter and a pump are on right side of picture)

 

Second shows pump/reservoir that is mounted at top of back-side.

(that is also where the fill-plug is located)

(the black-block, mounted on the side if it, holds a blue LED, to illuminate the tank)

 

Third shows the water-block, with it's mounting-clip.

(I fabricated the silver-color aluminum-channel piece to help hold the block in position,

block could slide up or down without the channel piece and double-sided tape on it)

 

See pictures:

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That case now has 2 pumps and 12 Fans total:!::shock:

 

The thing is, with Texas-Summer on the way,

I think it really Needs them All. :roll:

 

BTW - I got the AMD FX-6300 CPU to 4.2GHz with No problems

Later I will try to go higher.

 

EDIT: @ 4.2GHz and the TEMP at load is????

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EDIT: @ 4.2GHz and the TEMP at load is????

 

Well, I managed to find time to play Crysis-3, for about 10 minutes,

and the highest temp recorded was 123.deg F.

(that's with room-temp at 77.deg average)

 

So far I'm very Happy with the results, :-D

even though I had to spend more money than I intended to, when I started this upgrade project. :-(

 

I'll do more testing later with Bench-mark software.

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At heavy data loads is where there are Big improvements using water-cooling.

I'm seeing about 30.deg F improvements over fan cooling. :-D

 

The only area that I've seen that got slightly Worse was the Southbridge temp got about 3.deg F hotter, in one system.

I think the problem is that it's under the video-card and air is blocked.

I'll watch it but I think it will be okay since the temps are well below dangerous levels.

I may change video-card slot but that could increase temp of GPU.

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My gaming system is Still running Strong and Happy at 4.2GHz. :grin:

 

I decided not to push the clock any higher since that seems to be the Sweet-Spot for this config

and there is an 'OC-Genie' button on the 990FXA Mobo that automatically bumps it to 4.2, which makes it Easy to set, with No need to access BIOS.

 

and Yes there is a Very noticeable difference between 3.5 and 4.2GHz. :grin:

 

BTW - OC-Genie button got blue-screen with older AMD 970 6-core CPU :sad:

but works Great with AMD 6300 6-core CPU

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Hey Guys!

I need some Help finding a computer Case

suitable to mount a 200x400mm water-cooling Radiator, in top of case.

 

I already have most of the components to build the new system,

including the radiator.

 

But presently I've not found a case wide and deep enough to mount the radiator and four 200.mm fans

Inside the top of the case, without modifications.

I also have a $200. limit on cost of the case.

 

The cases I've found that are wide enough, have other problems,

like being too tall, much too expensive, or poor layout of fan mounts,

such as no mounting space for 200.mm fans in front and side of case. :?

( I really like 200.mm fans since they move more air at a much lower RPM,

which makes them quieter than the 120 and 140mm fan designs) :grin:

 

(140mm fans are okay for rear and bottom though, since I know it's difficult to mount 200mm fans there)

 

I may have to design and build, or modify, My own case, to get what I Want. :idea:

 

Any suggestions will be appreciated!

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Yes, I had looked at the H630

but it has some problems. :roll:

 

First there's only two 5-1/4" bays and they are at the top,

where the large radiator with four 200mm fans need to go.

I need at least three 5-1/4" bays for DVD-drive, fan-speed controls, media-ports and temp monitors.

The top could maybe be modified for the 200x400mm radiator assembly but not with bays there.

 

I don't think the rad could be mounted at front.

 

Second there is No mounting for 200.mm fan, and no window, in Side-panel.

(side-panel fan is needed, when water-cooling CPU, to cool Mobo components and I like a window there for Bling :lol:)

 

It's a Good case but it would require major modifications to front-panel, for sure . :-(

(And front-panel mods are very difficult to make Look good,

where everyone sees them):roll:

 

Thanks for the suggestion.

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Now that is a 'Different' :shock: case:!:

 

I like the reversible Mobo tray, to let you mount Mobo Upside-down,

have access door is on right side and mount power-supply in front

I think it was designed by a Left-handed person :idea: :lol:

I did not realize this tray was reversible when I looked at this case before.

 

There may be room for the 200x400 radiator in top but I think the top of front bay rack would need to be modified.

 

I do like some of the options of this case so I will try to find more info about it, Thanks

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The Azza-9000 may be a Usable case for what I'm trying to do! :-D

Thanks again for suggesting it!

I had taken it off my possible-List, since I did not know it was reversible.

 

I don't like the color options though.

I like the blue lights that are in White case but the all gloss-white case looks too much like a refrigerator to me, :lol:

and I don't like the red-lights in the black version. :-(

 

So maybe I'll get the white one and paint it to match my furniture. ;-)

I'm thinking Tan color with black trim?

All white Inside the case will be great, since it will show blue internal neon-lights better, that I will add.

 

The side window is too small but maybe I could enlarge it and put in a sheet of Lexan,

if I'm real careful when cutting the hole.

 

Hey, I can always use it for a Trash-can if I mess it up. :lol:

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I ordered a white 9000.

We will see how it goes.

 

I already have some Lexan for side-window enlargement.

 

Also, I think I'll move the I/O ports from top to front of case, if it's not too difficult.

 

This is picture of inside top. Looks like enough room to me:

(That horizontal brace-bar, at top of pic, may need to go though)

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Well, No one has said anything negative about my choice if colors for the 9000 case,

so I guess I'll go with Sand-Tan and Black exterior, with white interior, and blue lights.

 

I think copper is still my favorite color, for a case, but I've already done 2 of those,

so I'm ready for something a little different and Very old-fashioned. :lol:

 

I'll get the paint today and also get some wire-mesh, for modifying the air-inlet in bottom-cover, to allow in more air for radiator.

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Hey Toppack,

 

Sorry for not responding, seeing as I now have to take partial responsibility for the case pick. Seriously think that with your level of perciverence, you didn't go wrong. The tan and black color scheme will be outstanding. What's the type of paint you are planing to use. I had an older high end Raidmax that had an automotive paint finish on it, when it needed a shine, just broke out my bottle of Maguires. (lol). Still waiting on price drop for the NZXT Kraken to get started on my water cooling project for my AMD 955 in the Phantom 410. In the meantime I just received a Prolimatech Genesis for AMD 965 in a Zalman 11 Plus, waiting for a Couple of Gelid PWM fans as the Genesis ships with no fans (go figure).. Will be watching for updates, hope all goes well.

 

A.T.

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I'm doing Nothing-Fancy with the paint this time,

just going to use Rustoleum spray-cans but with a good automotive type primer.

I've found that as long as a good primer is used, spray-cans are great, on both metal and plastic parts.

 

The 3 colors of paint will require a lot of Masking-tape though. :wink:

 

I should receive the case in about 4 more days,

so until then I'll be collecting up parts and supplies.

 

We Are Having Fun Now :!: :grin:

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Wow, I receiver the 9000 case yesterday evening! :shock:

That's 2 day delivery from Newegg! :grin:

 

I've got it all disassembled and already started modifications.

This case is Not as large as it looks in pictures. :?

(the girl in Newegg video must be Very Small) :lol:

 

I found that only place I can mount the large radiator with fans, inside the case,

is in the bottom and when doing that there is Not enough space remaining for the Power-supply, which is supposed to go in bottom,

either front or rear. :-(

So looks like I'll need to mount PSU at top, partially in 2 upper drive-bays,

using the PSU mounting bracket that can be removed from bottom,

by drilling out rivets.

I think the 200mm fans in top of case will vent the PSU hot-air sufficiently.

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Toppack,

 

Maybe I'm "Thick as a Brick" (little 70's Jethro Tull reference for you), but if the case comes with two 230mm top fans and will accommodate up too 480mm radiator, why can't you mount the 440? What the heck am I missing?

 

A.T.

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