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2nd VelociRapter Drive


Toppack

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The radiator I have is about 440mm long (overall), which is no problem for most full size cases,

but it is about 220mm Wide , which is the problem.

 

Most long radiators are designed for 120mm or 140mm fans

but this rad is designed for 200mm fans.

 

There's just not enough room below the top and 230mm fans and the Mobo

and the rails that hold the Mobo-tray are also in the way, they are not removable with that case design.

so radiator-assembly must go in bottom of case.

 

I got the PSU bracket relocated to top-front of case.

I then noticed that the fan in PSU needed to reversed, for best airflow out top of case,

so I had to open up the power-supply and flip the fan.

I've never done that before with a PSU, so I'll need to monitor it's temp.

 

I filled the I/O-ports, in top of case with Bondo,

and I've started the painting process on top-cover and the areas I changed for PSU mount.

 

I had to make the provided internal AC-powercord longer, to reach from back of case to front of PSU.

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Today I've been drilling many more holes in both the bottom of the metal case and the plastic bottom-cover,

for better air flow to radiator.

 

The top 5.25 bay is now the filtered air inlet for PSU

and I can mount my multi-media/controller unit in 2nd bay from top.

(I first thought that 2nd bay was unusable because of new PSU location)

 

I found that the Lexan sheet I have is a little too scratched-up to use,

so I'll need to get more. :-(

 

I'm going to mount a blue 120mm fan in lower-front, where the PSU mount originally was,

since the radiator-assembly will be partially blocking cold air coming in from bottom of case.

I drilled holes for that today also.

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I decided to use the 'Left-handed Upside-down' configuration for the Mobo-tray. :grin:

That way the water-reservoir can be easily placed Above CPU and other cooling components,

since CPU is closer to bottom of case, with that config.

 

If I could have mounted the radiator in top of case I would have gone with the normal right-handed config.

 

Yesterday I cut the large hole in side-cover.

My wife got more Lexan to fill it and to replace the blue window piece with clear.

There's still a lot of work to do making that hole look better before painting.

 

Today I'll be making two small brackets to mount the reservoir and the flow-indicator on.

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Hi Toppack

 

As always, great work. You really are supplying a huge amount of info and handy tips.

 

Might I suggest that a white interior may not be the best choice, as the white surface will reflect heat back into the interior and reduce the efficiency of the cooling.

 

A dark interior surface will absorb the heat and a reflective exterior surface ie...white, silver, etc... will more efficiently reflect the heat away from the casing.

Sorry I did not post this when you were discussing the painting, but was away for the weekend,taking advantage of the first good weather in 18 months.

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Might I suggest that a white interior may not be the best choice, as the white surface will reflect heat back into the interior and reduce the efficiency of the cooling.

 

I thought about that but I think the reflection-factor is only critical when

there are high-heat producers. Hopefully the inside of case will Never get that Hot. :grin:

If it does I'll be using it to heat my house next winter, instead of for a computer. :lol:

There are many case manufactures making White ones now,

surely they would not do that if it caused a heating problem ?

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Hey Toppack,

 

I'm going slightly off topic here, but couldn't resist. Take a look at this little piece of case insanity: http://www.tweaktown.com/news/30795/inwin-s-tou-is-an-absolutely-gorgeous-work-of-art-oh-and-it-s-a-pc-chassis-too/index.html

 

A free bottle of Hope's Perfect Glass with every purchase???

 

A.T.

 

Wow, Radical :!:

I don't think I would want one with Mirrors on it.

I certainly Don't want to 'See Myself' in reflection, every time I used it. :lol:

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I've got all the design and layout work completed

and got the parts that needed fabrication or modification completed . :grin:

(such as brackets and new side-window parts)

 

I'll start masking and painting tomorrow, which will take more time than any other portion of the project. :roll:

 

After the paint is all dry I can start assembly of all the components. :grin:

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And So It Begins

 

Well, my hat is officially in the ring. After days of research and mulling, I finally reach a decision (and boy is my wife happy, "just make up your mind and do it, etc., etc."). Even though my original intent was to go with the NZXT Kraken 40, I finally plunked down my hard earned cash for:

 

http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/5188/swiftech-h220-compact-drive-ii-cpu-water-cooler-review/index10.html

 

No maintenance required in 3 yr warranty period, and can be refilled at 3yrs or as necessary. Mods to unit can be done without voiding warranty. Expandable cooling with any subsequent upgrades you might make.

 

So as Toppack said "We are having fun now", at least I will be as soon as the big brown truck arrives.

 

A.T.

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I'm still waiting for one of the water-cooling components but I went ahead and slipped in a mobo with a heatsink/fan cooler, to test it in the new case.

It worked Great! :-D

 

I've not finished painting of all the plastic-bezel pieces and side-doors yet

but I needed to see if everything required was going to fit before putting on the bezels anyway.

 

One thing I did not think about before,

when installing the mobo in Upside-down, the status LED-display on mobo is Also Upside-down. :roll:

I suppose I can always stand on my Head to read it. :idea: :lol:

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atailor1,

Here's a fancy flow-indicator, at a decent price:

(tubing-fittings are included)

I've seen this one for sale at about $75. other places. :shock:

(I think the size you will need is 3/8" (10mm) but not sure about that)

 

http://www.2cooltek.com/Tt-Liquid-Cooling-System-210-Flow-Indicator-CL-W0012.html

 

The type I've been using do not come with fittings,

and of the 3 I've purchased 1 of them had contamination inside it.

(see picture in previous post, page 4 and 6 of this tread)

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Thanks Toppack,

 

I've added to my to be acquired list. Tubing for unit is 5/8x3/8 16/10mm, so you hit the nail on the head. Once I have unit in hand and start making install decisions and figuring if there is anythning else I need, I'll grab one.

 

A.T.

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I 'Scared Myself' yesterday! :shock:

 

After finding a small leak at a water-cooling fitting,

I had to drain the system to put some Teflon-tape on the elbow-fitting.

I must have got a drop of water where it should Not be, on the mobo,

because when I again trying it, the system would Not boot-up. :roll:

 

But after I let everything dry-out for a couple of hours it booted normally again. :grin:

 

I think everything is installed and working correctly now but I need to do more testing to make sure.

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I was telling a friend that I had built a new computer and he asked if it was " Portable ". :roll:

 

I said 'Sure, it Only weighs 52 pounds' ! :lol:

 

(at least that's what our bathroom-scales say it weighs) :wink:

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BTW - Reversing the air-flow through the Power-supply seems to have Improved cooling, instead of hurt it.

(pulling instead of pushing)

 

There is also a 200mm fan directly above the PSU, in top of case, that is helping also. So, that may be what improved the cooling of PSU.

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I ended up with 12 fans total in this system.

five 200mm, four 120mm and I think the fans in PSU and two in Video-card are about 100mm each.

 

I may disconnect one of the 120mm fans, that is in back side-panel, if I determine it is not needed.

Since the 120mm fans make the most noise.

The two fans mounted on that side-panel are there to cool the front drive-bays

and there will not be that many hard-drives in this system.

Probably only two drives.

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BTW - Reversing the air-flow through the Power-supply seems to have Improved cooling, instead of hurt it.

(pulling instead of pushing)

 

There is also a 200mm fan directly above the PSU, in top of case, that is helping also. So, that may be what improved the cooling of PSU.

 

Toppack

 

Just for future reference and possibly assistance to other users who are following this very interesting and informative thread, please note that it is always best to cool by pulling rather than pushing.

When you push the air it creates a pressure at the point of cooling and this decreases the airs ability to remove heat efficiently. It can also create a danger of condensation under certain conditions.

By pulling the air through the system you create a negative pressure differential across the unit which is being cooled, which enables the air to remove heat more efficiently.

When the pulling of air is not sufficient, then a push fan is iclude to assist the pulling fan. The fans are set so that the pushing fan does not push more air than the pulling fan can remove. This creates a high airflow without producing a positive pressure at the unit being cooled.

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Yes, I was concerned about having to reverse the fan but looks it's going to work great that way. :grin:

 

Here's some pictures taken while still on work-bench:

 

1st shows side-panel with new window cut in center.

I use 1/4" thick Clear-Lexan for both windows.

(lower-right window and 200mm-fan were already installed)

 

2nd shows new location of PSU and bracket, in upper-left,

Radiator/fans assembly in bottom and reservoir & flow-meter in center.

And Other components, such as second pump in lower-right corner of picture.

 

3rd is top where I filled the I/O-ports, the switch-buttons that I added LEDs to and the blue HD-LED in lower-center of picture.

(case is actually tan at sides, not white. I was trying to get good pic of illuminated switches )

 

(I took pics of front of case but lighting was too bad)

(If any one would like more info about something please ask)

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Using my strobe-light I determined that the flow-indicator is turning at about 910.rpm in this system.

Which is very close to the other two, that are at 940. and 890.rpm.

 

All three use the same components in the loop,

except for the radiators, which are very different.

Of course there may be a slight difference in pump pressures,

or drag of the spinner-shaft.

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I tested both H-drive Hot-swap bays today

and after I located a loose cable connection :shock: :oops: they worked great! :-D

 

Also installed the two neon-lights, at top and rear of case, and they really make that white interior Pop :!: :-D

 

So far I'm very happy with the Azza-9000 case,

after doing the required mods. (moving the power-supply bracket and filling the I/O-ports were the only major mods)

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  • 2 weeks later...

The big brown truck got here and the Swiftech 220 is in and up and running. Spent about an hour and half configuring and installing. Only scare came when connecting molex for pump power to power supply, thought I had made my connection but almost had a Fubar, temp went through the roof, emergency shutdown, apply more pressure to molex connectors, restart system, pump now runs, tell self now safe to remove head from a very dark place.

 

Core temp is giving me idle temps in the range of 79-81 degrees at idle and have only seen 95 degrees at moderate load. Was getting the 95 degrees at idle with air cooler (Scythe Grand Karma Cross) which was more for bling, as it looks like a V8 (lol),

but wasn't that efficient.

 

Have ordered the flow indicator you had recommened, but got antsy and had to get started. So far I'm a happy camper and would like to thank you for starting the thread about water cooling, even though, as you say it did take things a litte far afied from you original intent.

 

A.T.

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